CASTING
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1.
Always weigh materials accurately, into separate containers.
Mixing ratio: 2 parts M1 Powder to 1 part M1 Resin
If needed, M1 pigments should be added to the resin and
incorporated prior to mixing.
The material has been formulated to have a pot life of circa
15 minutes; this can be extended by using retarder. If
required, retarder should be added to the resin prior to
mixing.
As a guide, every 2 grams of M1 retarder per kg of
total mix will extend the pot life by approx. 6 minutes.
Note: Avoid using shallow containers for mixing as the high
shear mixing. |
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2.
Attach the high shear mixing blade to a hand
held variable speed drill, immerse blade into M1 resin and start drill to create a vortex.
Add M1 powder into vortex and continue mixing
until fully incorporated. This should result
in a smooth, creamy consistency with no lumps
or excessive air.
Note: Do not exceed speeds of 750rpm and do not over mix. |
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3.
The mould should be appropriately prepared
i.e. if the mould is a rigid mould or polyurethane,
a suitable release agent should be applied,
if the mould is silicone, no release
agent is required. |
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4.
The use of gelcoats is optional when casting.
The gel coat can simply be a thickened version
of unfilled and unpigmented material.
If the
gel coat is to be pigmented, follow all of the
steps as previously described and then add a
few drops of M1 thixotrope.
Only add the M1
thixotrope after all the other components
have been mixed together and continue to
thicken until the desired consistency is
achieved. This then should be brushed on to
the mould surface at a thickness of no less
than 2mm.
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5.
The bulk material should be poured gently
into the mould when the gel coat has reached a
paste stage of set. The bulk material can
also be extended by the use of fillers such
as silica sand, marble dust etc. |
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6.
Following filling, leave mould to stand undisturbed until set. All M1
products are water-soluble and tools such as brushes, rollers and
mixing blades should be washed immediately after use.
With regard to mixing vessels, if these are plastic, any surplus
material can be allowed to set and knocked out for disposal later.
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7.
Once hardened carefully dismantle the mould casing, and remove. To
allow easy removal from silicone moulds, coat the back surface in
soap.
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8.
Products should be demoulded at the earliest possible stage. As the M1
product is water based, there is a residual quantity of water that
needs to evaporate from the product before the final properties are
achieved. |
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9.
The drying cycle will be de dependent on its mass and drying
conditions. It is essential that during this period the product is
stored appropriately to avoid deformation.
If the product is to be packaged, it should be fully cured before
being packaged to avoid condensation. If the product is to be
painted or patena applied, it should firstly be cured. This is
especially important if non-vapour permeable coatings are being used.
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LAMINATING
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1.
Always weigh materials accurately, into separate containers.
Mixing ratio: 2 parts M1 Powder to 1 part M1 Resin
If needed, M1 pigments should be added to the resin and
incorporated prior to mixing.
The material has been formulated to have a pot life of circa
15 minutes; this can be extended by using retarder. If
required, retarder should be added to the resin prior to
mixing.
As a guide, every 2 grams of M1 retarder per kg of
total mix will extend the pot life by approx. 6 minutes.
Note: Avoid using shallow containers for mixing as the high
shear mixing. |
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2.
Attach high shear mixing blade to a hand held variable speed
drill, immerse blade into M1 resin and start drill to
create a vortex. Add M1 Rowder into vortex and continue
mixing until fully incorporated. This should result in a
smooth, creamy consistency with no lumps or excessive air.
Note: Do not exceed speeds of 750rpm and do not over mix. |
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3.
The use of gel coats is essential when laminating . When
laminating the gel coat can simply be a thickened version of
unfilled and unpigmented material and is being used to prevent
any fibre reinforcement being visible .
If the gel coat is to be pigmented, follow a11 of the steps as
previously described and then add a few drops of M1
thixotrope.
Only add the M1 thixotrope after all the other
components have been mixed together and continue to thicken
until the desired consistency is achieved. This then should be
brushed on to the suitably prepared mould surface at a
thickness of no less than 2mm, and left to harden.
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4.
Apply the multi axial reinforcement, taking care to brush well
into cavities having first wet the back of the gel coat. |
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5.
Then using another mix of product containing some chopped
strand glass, brush on to form a spacer layer. |
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6.
The second layer of multi axial reinforcement can then be
applied. All M1 products are water-soluble and tools
such as brushes, rollers and mixing blades should be washed
immediately after use.
With regard to mixing vessels, if these are plastic, any
surplus material can be allowed to set and knocked out for
disposal later. |
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7.
If necessary, trim the product before demoulding. Using a
sharp blade, carefully trim back any excess product. Taking
care not to damage the mould. |
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8.
Products should be demoulded at the earliest possible stage.
As the M1 product is water based, there is a residual
quantity of water that needs to evaporate from the product
before the final properties are achieved. |
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9.
The drying will take place in a relatively short space of
time. It is essential that during this period the product is
stacked appropriately to avoid deformation.
If the product is to be packaged, it should be fully cured
before being packaged to avoid condensation. If the product is
to be painted or patenated, it should firstly be cured. This
is especially important if non-vapour permeable coatings are
being used. |
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